Reflections on our weekend in Ouro Preto

by Christopher Pitt

Our trip to Ouro Preto (Black Gold) was a welcome respite from the intense work at Iracambi.  We were able to strengthen our bonds as a group, and get to know one another outside of the structured academic environment.  

Ouro Preto is a former colonial mining town that was founded at the end of the 17^th century.  Additionally, it was the focal point of the Brazilian gold rush in the 18^th century and became the largest city in Brazil.  With the exhaustion of the gold mines in the 19^th century the city’s influence declined but many Escada churches, bridges, and fountains remain as a testimony to its past prosperity and the unique talent of the Baroque sculptor Aleijadinho.

The first church I visited was Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (Saint Francis de Assisi).  It was built in 1810 and was classified as one of the seven wonders of Portuguese origin in the world in 2009. Next to the church is a market which occupies the whole square with tents filled with handmade soapstone crafts.  You can find lots of interesting things here and it is one of the best places to find souvenirs in the city.

Each church gives a spectacular view of the city and they are all amazing works of architecture. One of the best views is from the top of the Igreja de Santa Efigenia (Church of Saint Efigenia) which is an exhausting climb to the top.  However, it is well worth it especially if you go there during sunset when you can see the entire historical part of Ouro Preto.

As a group we had numerous delicious meals.  Our first night we ate at a pizza and pancake rodízio called O Sótão - Casa de Panquecas.  Waiters came around and offered us everything form Margarita pizza to sweet pancakes.

The highlight of the trip (well, for the Real Madrid fans in the group) was watching Real Madrid defeat Atletico Madrid in the Champions League final.  The game was a tense, nail-biting affair with Real Madrid edging their opponents in penalty kicks.  We watched the game at a quaint restaurant called Escadabaixo Bar Cozinha which several us returned to the next day.

Next to our hostel was a bar/restaurant called Trem de Minas (Minas Train).  They had live music and specialized in food form Salvador, Bahia.  This included Moqueqa which I had yet to find on the trip.  Moqueqa is a stew made with a coconut milk base and accompanied with tomatoes, onions, garlic, coriander and palm oil (dendê). 

Aside from the Moqueqa there were obvious similarities between Ouro Preto and Salvador.  For example, the cobblestone streets, architecture, churches all served as reminders that they were Portuguese colonial towns.  However, the comparisons stop there.  Salvador had a rhythm and liveliness to it that was absent in Ouro Preto. Despite these differences our trip to Ouro Preto was a wonderful experience.

I highly recommend that visitors stop by this former colonial mining town to get a better sense of Brazil’s diverse and complex history.  Tchau!!